Cairo, Egypt. 18:00 9 Nov 2004
Last night, Chris and I had dinner with his friend Basel,
who has lived for the past five years in a suite at the Intercontinental Hotel.
Basel was invited, by the
government, to come to Egypt
and start an internet service provided (ISP). He is a very eccentric man, who
smokes at least one joint a day; during Ramadan, he must smoke three. After
work, he says he needs an “Attitude Adjustment” after dealing with “All those
fucking Egyptian idiots.” Because of Basel’s
connections at the Intercontinental, we got dinner at The Bird Cage, a Thai
restaurant, for half price (only 180 pounds).
Today, Chris and I first went to the Gayer-Anderson Museum. John Gayer-Anderson was a
British major, who restored the two adjoining houses, donated by the Egyptian
government, from 1935 to 1942. The government donated the houses to him, under
the condition that he would donate the houses, including all the artifacts and
paintings he filled within, to the government upon his death, in order to make
a museum. One room in the house was a set in the James Bond movie, The Spy Who
Loved Me. The whole house was fascinating. There were Oriental rooms, Persian
rooms, and rooms filled with his own paintings. It even had a secret room from
which the harem (or ladies) could listen in on the men.
Afterwards, I tried for a second time to find the Blue
Mosque, with the assistance of my Arabic-speaking friend Chris. After asking
four different men, and being shown to two mosques that were clearly not the
Blue Mosque, we found the Real McCoy. We never would have guessed it from the
outside, but the parts of the inside that had been restored were beautiful. The
mosque got its name from Prince Aqsunqur, who added all the blue Turkish tiles
to the mosque. It is a UNESCO site, currently undergoing restoration.
For lunch, we had the Egyptian students’ equivalent of our
Ramen noodles. The dish was a combination of rice, pasta, and lentils, with a
spicy tomato sauce. It was only 3 pounds (fifty cents), but very delicious.
Cairo, Egypt. 23:50 9 Nov 2004
In an effort to do all of the “touristy” things in Cairo,
Chris and I went to the Sound and Light Show at the Giza Pyramids. Since Chris
helped write part of the new show (still in development), we had free front row
seats and were personally welcomed by the owner. It really pays to have
connections. The show was a little cheesy, with the Sphinx telling Egyptian
history, but it was enthralling nonetheless. It was informative, and seeing the
Pyramids and Sphinx lit up with various colors was entertaining, and would be a
stoner’s dream.
After the Sound and Light show, we tried going to an Egyptian
restaurant in Giza, but as with
everything in this country, it was closed for Ramadan. Therefore, we went back
to Maroush for more Lebanese food and tashish for Chris. We played a game of
Chess, in which I was victorious (not to be boastful), while waiting for our
food, and then we watched three queens sitting next to us checking us out. I
will let the following picture speak for itself.
I have decided that one should never travel to a Muslim
country during the month of Ramadan. Everything closes early, if it even opens
at all. All the bars and clubs are closed, because while Muslims are not
supposed to drink alcohol any time during the year, the government really does
not allow it during Ramadan. Similarly, all movie theaters are closed because
an unmarried woman could, Allah forbid, hold hands with a man. During Ramadan,
even married couples are not allowed to have sex. Between sunrise and sunset,
no one can eat, drink (even water), or smoke. Therefore, by about 3pm, people tend to be crabby and irritable.
Then, once the evening prayer is completed, about 5pm,
all the Muslims gorge themselves at iftar (which means break fast). I use the
term gorge literally. While the original intent of Ramadan was to feed the poor
at iftar, it has turned into all-you-can-eat, not all-you-care-to-eat feast.
One-third of the agricultural output of Egypt
is consumed during the month of Ramadan. Furthermore, the fasting during the
day is supposed to bring one closer to Allah. However, all it does is force
everyone to flip their schedules upside down. Everyone will leave work early to
go home and nap until iftar. Then they will eat, eat again around 11pm, and possibly again at 5am. Then they work a few hours and the trend continues.
Basel,
who works at the ISP, complains that no work is done during the month, because
everyone leaves early, and for the few hours they are at work, they are tired,
hungry, and crabby. In conclusion, I will hand it to them for managing to get
nearly a month of easy work.